When I create brown butter, I know it’s nearly done when the frantic hiss of the fat melting suddenly stops. This is the first sign that the butter is almost done cooking. When this happens, I know that the moisture has been cooked out of the food and that the milk solids are ready to begin to caramelise at the bottom of the pan. The next indication is a fragrance. Does my kitchen smell like toasted nuts? After it has done so, and only then, do I look into the saucepan to verify the colour.
When you cook successfully, you should make use of all of your senses since it makes the process less difficult and more fluid. This topic was the focus of Yewande Komolafe’s most recent column, which also included a recipe for spiced crème caramel (above). When she prepares it, she relies on both her sight and her sense of smell to determine how long to toast the spices and when to remove the caramel from the heat in order to make it conform to her preferences.
She then elaborates on the topic by stating that using all of your senses is a good way to customise a food you’re making. She says that “a single recipe is never the one authentic version of a meal,” and that paying attention to sensory clues while cooking enables one to explore the limits of a recipe. When you try a new food in the future, pay attention to all of your senses and go with your gut instinct. You are more knowledgeable about the foods that appeal to your palate than any recipe could ever hope to be.
Many brand-new recipes are available for you to try, such as Kay Chun’s easy cheese manicotti, which are called cannelloni in Italy, and Yasmin Fahr’s baked chicken and feta meatballs with oats added to the batter to keep things moist.
And many dishes from the past may still be novel to you, such as sheet-pan shrimp gratin with its crisp and cheesy covering; curried swordfish with tomatoes and greens; or Charleston red rice, a possible descendent of West African jollof rice.
I can personally suggest red lentil soup with lemon, this traditional grilled cheese, and Marcella Hazan’s exquisite Bolognese sauce. All three are excellent. Then, if you’re in the mood for something sweet, how about a batch of oatmeal chocolate chip cookies or a straightforward chocolate cake that you mix in the pan?
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When it comes to engaging all of my senses in the kitchen, one of my go-to strategies is to play music in the background. A new album by the Beths titled “Expert in a Dying Field” was recently published, and it features peppy chopping and bopping. Or, if I’m in the mood for mesmerising swaying and stirring, I might listen to the newest album by Caroline Shaw and the Attacca Quartet called “Evergreen.” Does the title, “Root,” evoke images of trees or radishes in your mind when you listen to this eerie song?
In the event that radishes are the solution, here is a simple snack to provide with beverages. Remove the stems and leaves from the radishes, but keep some of the greens intact if they are still vibrant. Spread the sides that have been sliced with melted butter, then drizzle with honey and sprinkle with chunky dried chilli flakes such as gochugaru, Aleppo pepper, or Urfa pepper. This complements gin and tonics or seltzer spiked with a lot of fresh lime juice quite nicely. Cheers! Sam will be here on Friday, and I’ll see you the following week.
