The ambition to possess a pair of Buffalo platform shoes will be familiar to most youngsters who grew up in the 1980s and 1990s. A hefty rubber high-fashion version, securely knotted, studded with pearls and crystals, and paired with matching knee socks would be irresistible for anybody (of any age).
Exactly that was on display at Simone Rocha’s stand at London Fashion Week. Although Ms. Rocha isn’t new to the platform, and she previously debuted embroidered track-sole shoes in her spring 2021 collection, she had her models stand tall in comfy stompers this season, which contrasted with the pretty ribbon-trailing looks with their solid, streetwise roughness.
In contrast to the rest of the collection, the squidgy footwear and accessories designed by Asian-American designer Chet Lo were a spikier proposition. Mr. Lo, a newbie to the Fashion East talent incubator, debuted with a tropical vacation-inspired collection called “Splash,” for which he created and used a rubberized knit fabric to create an edgy, eye-popping appearance. Mr. Lo is a fashion designer based in Hong Kong. To illustrate, consider the massive spiky lemon-yellow shoulder bag (with accompanying leg warmers, naturally). Alternatively, there were the backless stilettos in tropical fish colours that gave the sensation that the toes were being massaged by tentacles, which were quite popular this season.
Taking a look at the designs of Nensi Dojaka is also a pleasurable experience for the senses. The recently crowned LVMH Prize laureate had her training as a lingerie designer, and her barely-there designs demonstrate a delicate touch as well as a strong feminine sense for how to put things together. Asymmetric slips, bralettes, and separates, many of which are hung from intricate threadlike straps, may be a little too audacious for even the most adventurous of fashionistas to pull off successfully. A pair of transparent tights that are ruched along the sides, as well as another with a single graphic blossom cutout that is sure to turn attention, would enable her to take a step in that direction.
Harris Reed has been putting in a lot of effort in this area lately. In a gold jacquard bustier and flared trousers with an accompanying crinoline skirt made of layers of feathers covered in gold leaf, this American designer based in London, fresh from a red carpet appearance at the Met Gala, dressed Iman, demonstrating that she understands how to translate fashion theatrics into savvy commercial propositions with her designs.